I scan the horizon as a white-capped swell curls over itself, suddenly closer than I anticipated.  My heart races as I quickly assess whether I want to catch this wave, float over it, or duck under it.  No time to choose, I realize, and instantly slide off my board and dive under the curling mountain of sea water.  Beneath the heaving wave I feel the pressure of water above, and the undertow tugging me from below.  My surfboard is caught in the crossfire and tries to drag me along with it. Still underwater, I grab the ankle leash with a strong tug so that when I emerge my board is again safely by my side. Breaking the water’s surface, I shake seaweed from my hair and water out of my ears and realize I am grinning. I hoist myself back onto the board. Flat on my stomach, I paddle out deeper, sit up on my board, turn to face the sea, and wait. The only sounds are waves breaking on the shore, and water lapping at my board. The sun warms my face; my toes are numb. On my board, in the sea, I am in my element.

Ever since I picked up a surfboard at 13, surfing has been a passion. I chose not to take lessons, but to let the ocean teach me instead. This approach succeeded; before long, I had the knack of it and could ride small waves. Surfing revealed aspects of water I had not understood.  It showed me how the ocean is unpredictable, dangerous, variable, beautiful and sometimes violent. Waves can swell or crash, diminish or grow, flip sideways or suddenly disappear. Even my board can take on a life of its own when I jump on it, sliding ahead or slipping out from under me when I least expect it. I realized that all aspects of surfing fit, and even complement, me. I have to rely on both learned and natural skills to attempt this sport. From ballet I acquired coordination, balance and grace, from lacrosse I learned to be quick, agile, and alert; weight training helps my muscles to be flexible and strong and swimming daily has given me that most important sixth sense:  knowing water.

Not only does surfing require certain physical characteristics, but particular personality traits are helpful as well. An open mind is needed to take on the unpredictable ocean. This reflects my openness to the unknown. I embrace new ideas and different experiences. Surfing demands flexibility; the always-changing tides, wind, temperature and wave size have to be adjusted to, a skill which reflects my ease of adapting to changes in circumstance. I am persistent and determined, as a competitive swimmer must be, and accustomed to being wet for much longer than most people enjoy.  And finally, a surfer never knows what type of person will be by their side in the sea: surfing’s encounters have broadened my mind and my view of the world. I know that I will continue to be drawn to all different kinds of people and places and always will embrace opportunities to face a new challenge.

1. oxceanwxaves posted this